Back to Basics
Derek Smith • 19 March 2022
Wine Glasses
Photo By: Derek Smith
Victorian Sewing Kit
Photo By: Derek Smith
Ninja
Photo By: Derek Smith
South Kyme
Photo By: Derek Smith
Within our Society we have photographers of all abilities, and whether you are a beginner, or an experienced photographer it’s sometimes good to review our photography skills.
Compositional Techniques – A photo should always tell a story, a narrative that conveys the subject, or point of interest of the image immediately to the viewer, so remember that lines pointing toward the subject can guide the eye. Having the subject brighter than the surrounding area is also a good technique, a shaft of light on a building can often be utilised when a break in the clouds allows. Very bright grey featureless skies can be the bane of landscape photography, try tilting the camera down to reduce the amount of sky in the final image, or try photographing the scene at a different time of day. The positioning of a subject within the photo frame is also important, if the subject can move, give it room to move into the frame, if the subject has eyes have the direction of gaze looking into the frame, or look at a point of interest within the frame, in portraiture perhaps the subject could look directly at the photographer. Decide from the outset what to include in the photo, or even more importantly what to leave out.
Focus Points – With modern digital cameras a photographer should be able to control the size, and positioning of the focus point. Leaving the focus on automatic, and wide runs the risk of the camera focus locking onto something other than your subject, or a point of interest, usually it’s the nearest thing to the camera, a blade of grass, or a tree!! Learn how to control the size, and position of the focus point on your camera thus ensuring the subject of the image is sharp.
Get Out of Auto – We use the auto exposure mode regularly on our mobile phones, and sometimes on our cameras, and there’s nothing fundamentally wrong with taking photos on Auto mode however, a photographer can be far more creative, and produce a more impactful image by selecting Aperture Priority on the camera.
Aperture Priority Explained – The aperture of a lens, the size of the iris, the hole that lets the light into the camera via the lens, is controlled by the aperture blades. Using Aperture Priority mode allows the photographer to control, and vary the aperture, to adjust for the scene, and the ambient light. The size of aperture is denoted by what’s known as an “f” number, with the lowest “f” number opening the widest, and therefore letting the most light into the camera. In Aperture Priority mode as the aperture is varied, the camera automatically adjusts the shutter speed to give the correct exposure. Learning the effects of the different apertures can be slightly daunting for someone new to photography, so as we now know that in Aperture Priority mode adjusting the aperture also adjusts the shutter speed I would like you to think of the aperture settings, in bands, related to the shutter speed.
Fast: f/1.0 – f/3.5, sometimes referred to as “wide open”, allows the most light into the camera, and therefore gives the highest shutter speeds. Useful for indoor low light situations, and portraits.
Medium: f/4 – f/7.1, allows less light into the camera, useful for photography of birds, small mammals, and portraits.
Slow: f/8 – f/16, often referred to as “stopped down”, this is an ideal setting for landscape, architecture, and portraits.
It is also useful to remember that most lenses produce the sharpest images between f/4 – f/8.
Practical Application – Learn how to locate, and be able to adjust the aperture, on your camera. Setting the Mode Dial to “A” or “Av” puts the camera into Aperture Priority mode, and usually a control wheel on the camera adjusts the aperture range. One other control to consider is ISO, which controls the sensitivity of the sensor. Locate, and be able to adjust the ISO on your particular model of camera, you may have to press a button on the back of the camera, to enable adjustment of the ISO.
Exercise – Having located the Aperture, and ISO controls on the camera, try this practical exercise; set the aperture to the “Fastest” aperture for your camera / lens combination, it may be f/2, or f/3.5. Set the ISO to 200, half press the shutter button and note the shutter speed, either in the viewfinder, or on the rear screen. Now, double the ISO to 400, and the shutter speed will double as well, repeat the experiment, at ISO settings of 800, 1600, and 3200, and observe the shutter speed double each time. You now have total control of your camera!!
It is useful to understand that a shutter speed of 1/60, and above, should enable a blur free handheld image of a static subject, (although image stabilisation, a tripod, or a convenient fence may help to steady the camera when using a slower shutter speed), and that a faster shutter speed of 1/250 will freeze action in a moving subject.
Sample Images
Wine glasses: This monochrome image taken at a “Fast” aperture of f/2, ISO 200, and shutter speed of 1/200 demonstrates a creative aspect of a “Fast” aperture, the foremost wine glass is sharp, but the wine glasses behind are blurred, and this type of image is not possible in Automatic Mode.
Victorian Sewing Kit: This image taken in a National Trust property which do not allow flash photography. Using a “Medium” aperture this time of f/4.5, ISO 6400, and shutter speed of 1/8, (utilising the camera stabilisation), I found the colours very pleasing.
Ninja: This image of a speeding motorcycle was taken at Cadwell circuit, the “Medium” aperture of f/5, ISO 64, and a shutter speed of 1/250. The camera settings coupled with a technique known as “panning”, which is locking the focus onto the motorcyclist and following the bike through its progress as it passes the photographer. The blurred background, together with the blurred wheels create a dynamic image of speed on the circuit.
South Kyme: Finally a landscape image, the deep blue spring sky, the chapel on the left balanced by the tree on the right. The “Slow” aperture of f/8, ISO 160, with a shutter speed of 1/850, I possibly could have stopped the aperture down to f/10, but generally pleased with the result, and the deep colours.
I hope that this post has inspired you, demystifies some photographic techniques, and helps you to enjoy photography.
Louth Photographic Society
Good morning All Last week at the club we held our monthly competition, a PDI, with the categories of "Insects" and "Open". There was a good level of entries and some excellent photography. The competition was judged by Colin Lusby of NELPS Photographic Society. The "Open" category was won by Dave Turner with an excellent landscape of Llanberis, and I managed a first place in the subject competition with a Willow Emerald Damselfly, still quite rare but I photographed this one at Bressingham Gardens Norfolk. The results and photographs are on are website under competitions. This week, Wednesday 21st January, is our project night, only four members took part, hopefully more will take part this year. The subject was "Prime Time", one photograph a month with the same focal length lens. To finish the evening, Paul Twomey is showing his mini lecture that he missed last time, and newer member Sam Collett is showing some of his work. The new project subject is Water, one photograph a month including water. There is plenty of water about at the moment, the rivers are flowing well for a start. Dave Turner will now accept your titles for Print of the year, the same subjects as the PDI of the year but with the addition of Best mono in competition as well. This is chosen by the judge from any mono print in the six subjects. Regards Graham
It was our first meeting after the Christmas break, it was good to be back and the meeting was well attended. We held a PDI competition with the categories of “Insects”, and “Open”, our judge for the evening was Colin Lusby, who is a very experienced judge, and he gave many useful tips, and suggestions on how to improve our images for greater impact. Dave Turner took the well deserved top spot, in the “Open” category with his image of “Moody Llanberis”, landscape photography doesn’t just need a good view, the skill is in capturing the mood, the light, and the shadows, as well as the scene – Dave has captured the scene perfectly, it’s a view that anyone would love to hang on their wall. In the “Insects” category, Graham Harrison took the top spot with his perfectly sharp Willow Emerald Damselfly, this is a beautiful green iridescent insect pictured on a stalk, an excellent capture. The Competition page on the our website has been updated with the top three images in each category, and the score sheets.
Good Morning All I photographed this Treecreeper bird at Linwood Warren recently. We start back again this Wednesday 14th January with a PDI competition, the categories are "Insects" and "Open" to be judged by Colin Lusby of NELPS. The list of entries has been sent out and we have a good entry, fifty images altogether. The following week we hold our project night, "Prime Time", we have four members showing their images from the project. Regards Graham
The use of monochrome images seems to be coming back into fashion of late. Many of a certain generation will remember when monochrome was everywhere, television, newspapers, magazines, films, and our own photos (black and white film was less expensive), I remember in the mid sixties when the Sun newspaper (a broadsheet at that time) and the Daily Herald began a rivalry to publish the most colour photos into each edition. Monochrome images can sometimes convey a mood, and detail that’s not always evident in a colour photograph. Converting a digital colour image to monochrome can take a fair amount of skill, sometimes it’s helpful to visualise the image as a monochrome before even taking the photo, when editing the blacks have to be rendered as pure black, and the whites rendered as pure white, with a range of greys in-between, otherwise an image can look “muddy”. If your camera allows possibly try shooting some images in monochrome. Portraits, architecture, landscape, street photography, and trees often make the best monochrome images, and rarely wildlife, although my image of a lizard is quite effective. I shall be running a “Photo Editing” workshop on the 4th February, and members will have a chance to try converting colour digital images to monochrome.
Good Morning All I have been out a few times with my camera, there are a lot of Fieldfares around in large flocks at the moment, the only trouble is they soon take flight so are quite hard to get near, this one was from the car window. Our first meeting back in the New Year will be January 14th opening with a PDI competition, the categories are "Insects" and "Open" judged by Colin Lusby, please send your entries to Harry with a closing date of midnight the 7th January. The following week is the project night where members were asked to take part and using a prime lens take one photograph a month. Myself and Derek have done the project could any members who have taken part let me know please so I have an idea how much time will be left over. We are hoping to enter the N&EMPF club PDI competition and LPA club PDI competition, Harry as usual will organise an entry for us but if you can send him up to six of your very best PDI's when you have time, please. The main rule is it can't have been in the competition before. You may need to send them in two files as LPA use a size of 1920 x 1080 and NEMPF 1600 x 1200. The new project for this year is water, one photograph a month which includes water. The projects will be then shown January 2027. There is also the LPA individual PDI competition you may want to enter, Derek sent details a few weeks ago but information can be found on the Lincolnshire Photographic associations website. Regards Graham
So, why did I swap my Olympus OM-D E-M5 iii camera, and associated lenses for the Fuji XT-3 and lens system, and return to Olympus / OM Systems just a few years later? The Olympus E-M5 iii was, and still is a very capable camera, with a 20Mp micro four thirds sensor, and fully weather proofed, my camera upgrade path was to the OM-D E-M1 iii, but it would have cost me at least £1000, providing me with dual SD cards, and a few extra controls. It was cheaper for me to sell all my Olympus gear, and buy into the Fuji ecosystem, the XT-3 had the dual SD card slots, and promised to have improved image quality. The Fuji lens selection was extensive, and I bought a pair of zoom lenses, and a couple of prime lenses. Later on I bought the Fuji XS-20 as an everyday carry camera, but it was forever warning of overheating. I was content with the Fuji system for several years, I would liked to have photographed more birds, and wildlife, however the reach (focal length) of the 70-300mm Fuji lens was a limiting factor. I took some of my best photographs with the Fuji system, and the Fuji 16-80mm zoom lens was one of my favourite all-round lens. The turning point for me was the launch of the OM Systems OM-1, with a stacked BSI sensor, and subject detection AF, I could have chosen a Nikon, or Canon camera system but the lens selection was limited at that time for the latest mirror-less cameras. I sold all the Fuji gear, and bought a used OM-1 camera for £850, closely followed by a 12-45mm f/4 zoom lens, the 17mm f/1.8 prime (an all time favourite of mine) the 25mm f/1.8, and the 45mm f/1.8 prime. I’ve repurchased the Olympus E-M5 iii, as it’s a great small everyday carry for travel, and general photography. The lens I bought last year was the 60mm f/2.8 macro lens, which has enabled me to take some great insect photos. For bird, and wildlife photography I have been using the Olympus 70-300mm zoom lens, but I’ve just upgraded that to a OM Systems 100-400mm zoom lens, which is stabilised to 7 stops of IBIS on the OM-1, and is fully waterproof, and dustproof. As the micro four thirds sensor is smaller than a full frame sensor, you have to double the focal length to obtain an equivalent viewing angle to a full frame camera, thus the 100-400mm lens becomes equivalent to 200-800mm on a full frame camera. For this coming year I intend to be more focused (no pun intended) on landscape, and wildlife photography, watch this space. Whatever camera, or phone you’re taking photos with just enjoy your hobby, and keep learning and improving.
Good Morning All I hope you all had a very good Christmas and wishing you all a happy new year. I tried to find one photograph that summed up the year. Regards Graham
I hope that everyone has had a very good, and healthy Christmas. For our Programme for the New Year, I shall be running a photo editing workshop on 4th February, I will provide each participating member with an SD card containing example images for us to work together in editing. I shall be using three photo editing apps, which are all free to download and use, the first of which is: FastStone – This is the software that our Society uses for displaying images during our PDI competitions. The software is excellent for reviewing a file of .jpg images, basic edits, and resizing of images. The software is unable to develop RAW images, but does show a thumbnail preview which can be useful for culling a set of RAW images. Microsoft Windows only. Canva Affinity – This is excellent for developing a single RAW image, processing Focus Stacking, and Bracketed Exposure images. The software also can be used for layering, and compositing of images. I will be demonstrating the Focus Stacking, Bracketed Exposures, layering and compositing of images. You will need a Canva account to download this free software which runs on Windows, and Apple Mac. RawTherapee – This is an extremely complex photo editor, but I firmly believe that the software can rival anything that Adobe produces without the bloat, and cost. However the software has a steep learning curve, especially with the masking tools. One of the best features for me is the preview ribbon of a set of images at the top of the screen, I also like the tabbed editing tools, it is also possible to batch process basic edits onto a RAW file using a RawTherapee pp3 file. RawTherapee can be downloaded to Windows, Mac, and Linux. To gain the best from the workshop I would ask members to download all three software apps to their laptops. In addition there are YouTube tutorials on the use of RawTherapee, which I would encourage you to watch, and that way we can work together to understand how to produce the best results from the software. Wishing all our members a very happy, and prosperous New Year.
Good Morning, All, We had a very good last meeting before Christmas, thank you to my partner Jane for her hard work preparing the buffet, also thank you to Tony for preparing the quiz, there were some very good questions with Robin and Heather coming out on top with a fantastic 48 points. Thank you to Harry as well for running the raffle and to everyone who donated a prize. We now start our Christmas break but if you get bored there are things that you could be doing. The first meeting back on 14th January will be a PDI competition, with the categories of "Insects" and "Open", you can start sending entries to Harry now, remember three insect entries and three open entries with an (R) after one entry which will be removed if there are too many entries, but you may use it some other time. Derek sent information regarding the individual LPA PDI competition, it would be good if a few members entered. They do like you to go along on the day of the competition as well if you enter or just go along anyway if you didn't. The Print Of The Year (POTY) competition is held in February, so it would be a good time to look through your prints and sort some out ready. For newer members it may seem a funny time of year but our camera club year runs from the beginning of May to the end of April, all rules are under competitions on our website but the main one is that your entry hasn't been in a print of the year competition before, there are six subjects plus best mono in competition, this can be from any of the subjects. The subjects are Landscape, Pictorial, Nature, Photojournalism / Street, Record and Portrait. Regards Graham
The buffet and quiz evening was one of the highlights of our calendar, it's the culmination of the year's events before the Society takes a Christmas break. The buffet was excellently prepared by Jane, who is Graham's partner, with plenty of delicious food, pork pies, sandwiches, plum bread, with cheese, quiche, mince pies, and cake. Tony Gaskins produced an esoteric quiz, and Robin and Heather scored the most points with 48 points, I scored a miserable 17 points, but we all had a lot of fun with the answers. The raffle raised £47, with some members collecting more prizes than others, amid lots of laughter and banter. Overall it was an excellent evening, enjoyed by all. A big thank you to Jane for the buffet, Tony for the quiz, and Harry for organising the raffle. Wishing all our members, and readers a merry Christmas.
