APS-C vs. Full Frame Sensor
Derek Smith • 4 August 2022
APS-C vs Full-Frame: What’s the difference?
Full-frame sensors measure the same as 35mm film, which is 36 x 24mm. Meanwhile, smaller APS-C sized sensors measure in at either 23.6 x 15.7mm (Nikon, Pentax, Sony, Fujifilm) or 22.2 x 14.8mm (Canon). That makes full-frame about 2.6x larger in terms of total surface area size.
As already mentioned, there is also Micro Four Thirds (17.3 x 13mm, MFT), and Medium Format (43.8 x 32.9mm).
Full-frame sensors can be found in the best full-frame mirrorless cameras, as well as many of the best DSLRs. You’ll even occasionally find a full-frame sensor in a high-end compact camera. Full-frame sensors are used by Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic, Pentax, Sigma and Leica.
You’ll find an APS-C sensor in many of the best mirrorless cameras too, and they’re also commonly used in DSLRs. APS-C sensors are used by Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fujifilm and Pentax. Again, occasionally there are APS-C sensors found in high-end compacts.
The physical size differences lead to both advantages and disadvantages, which we’ll discuss in more detail below.
What is a crop sensor?
You might hear the term crop sensor from time to time, which simply means something which is smaller than full-frame. It’s a term which is most commonly applied to APS-C, but it can also be used to describe even smaller sensors, such as Micro Four Thirds, or even the smaller sensors that you find in compact cameras and smartphone – though it’s rare to hear those described as such.
What is a crop factor?
Crop sensors have a crop factor that you need to take into account when using lenses with your camera. When using a full-frame camera, whatever focal length is printed on the lens (for example 100mm) is what you’ll get when you shoot with it. However, when you use a smaller sensor, you’ll need to apply a “crop factor” to get the equivalent focal length.
Nikon, Fujifilm, Sony and Pentax APS-C sensors have a 1.5x crop factor, while Canon APS-C sensors have a 1.6x crop factor. Therefore, the 100mm lens mentioned above gives you an equivalent of either 150mm or 160mm – simply times the focal length by the appropriate crop factor.
Other sensor sizes have different crop factors. A Four Thirds sensor has a 2x crop factor (100mm becomes 200mm), while a one-inch sensor has a 2.7x crop factor (100mm becomes 270mm). It also works with bigger than full-frame sensors too – medium format has a 0.79x crop factor, which would make a 100mm lens equivalent to 79mm.
List of sensor crop factors:
Medium format = 0.79x
Full frame = 1x
APS-C (general) = 1.5x
APS-C (Canon) = 1.6x
Four Thirds: 2x
One inch = 2.7x
What are the benefits of APS-C?
When it comes to image quality, it’s a general rule of thumb that a bigger sensor equals better performance – but there’s plenty of advantages to APS-C, usually depending on what exactly it is you want from your camera.
One of the big advantages is that APS-C systems are normally smaller and lighter than full-frame equivalents. With smaller bodies and smaller optics, it’s a good choice if you don’t want to carry heavy gear, such as while travelling or for hiking long distances. If you want to shoot handheld, it can be easier to keep smaller and lighter bodies stabilised, too.
On that note, the crop factor also means that your longer lenses don’t need to be as long, heavy, or expensive as full-frame equivalents to get you closer to the action. That’s why cameras such as the recently announced APS-C cameras Fujifilm X-H2S and the Canon EOS R7 have been pitched strongly as wildlife and action cameras.
Speed is also something that is generally easier to achieve with APS-C, especially at affordable prices. Cameras like the Canon EOS R7 offer up to 30fps shooting, in a camera which costs a fraction of the price of similarly speedy models, such as the Nikon Z9 or the Canon EOS R3. That gives ordinary amateur photographers without the big budgets of professionals the chance to capture fast-moving action in a much more affordable fashion.
Does sensor size matter?
Having a smaller sensor can give other benefits as well, and here’s an example which illustrates the cost and weight advantage of using APS-C, particularly when looking at the whole system, which includes the camera and lenses.
APS-C system: Fujifilm X-H2S, plus 16-55mm f/2.8 and 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 costs £5200 and weighs about 2700g.
Full-frame system: Nikon Z9, plus 24-70mm f/2.8 and 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 costs £8800, and weighs about 3500g.
To sum up, the main advantages of APS-C cameras are:
Cheaper
Faster
Smaller
Lighter
APS-C cameras are best for:
Wildlife photography
Sports photography
Travel photography
Street photography
Photographers on a budget
What are the benefits of Full Frame?
Full-frame is often seen as the “gold-standard” for many photographers, with APS-C often thought of being the preserve of enthusiasts and those with a lower budget. While that’s not strictly fair or accurate these days, there are lots of advantages of using a camera with a larger sensor.
If the best image quality is your main concern, then generally speaking, full-frame will help you achieve that in a wider variety of settings. Low light performance is generally better, as is dynamic range for the most part.
If you crave super high resolution cameras, you’ll only find them with full-frame (and larger sensors) too. APS-C tends to max out at around 26-32 megapixels, whereas full-frame offers up to and beyond 50 or 60 megapixels (you can go even further with medium format, where you can now get 100 megapixel sensors). This generally makes full-frame better suited to high-detail type shots, as well as giving you more flexibility when it comes to cropping in post-production while still maintaining a high pixel count.
It’s easier to achieve a shallow depth of field when using a full-frame sensor. Although you can achieve the same look when using crop sensors, you might need to get too close to the subject for the same kind of background blur. It’s generally why portrait photographers, for example, prefer to use full-frame.
When it comes to using your lenses, knowing exactly what you’re getting (i.e. 100mm = 100mm) when shooting full-frame is more straightforward. That also means if you’re using older / vintage lenses from DSLR or even film days, you know exactly what you’re getting when using them on mirrorless full-frame models.
To sum up, the main advantages of full-frame cameras are:
Better image quality
Higher resolution
Easier shallow depth of field effects
Straightforward to understand lens focal lengths
Full-frame cameras are best for:
Landscape photography
Portrait photography
Low light photography
Studio photography
Which should I buy – APS-C Vs Full-Frame?
There’s not necessarily a right or wrong answer when it comes to full-frame vs APS-C and deciding which you should buy. You should think about the types of subjects you like to shoot, the budget you have available, and how much bulk and weight you are prepared to carry around.
If you’re a landscape photographer, for example, looking for a high-resolution camera which can deliver exceptional dynamic range, and you also want to shoot in low light, then full-frame is the obvious choice. Similarly, if you’re a portrait photographer who wants the best resolution and easy-to-achieve shallow depth of field effects, full-frame is the way to go.
On the other hand, if you’re a wildlife or sports photographer and don’t want to splash out on a super-expensive full-frame camera, but you do want to get close to the action, use fast-frame rates and carry something small and lightweight, then APS-C is probably the more sensible option. Travel photographers who don’t want to unnecessarily weigh themselves down might also choose to opt for APS-C, or Micro Four Thirds for an even smaller system.
To conclude, the simple truth is that no, not every photographer needs full-frame. While the larger sensor will provide higher image quality in lots of different scenarios, you’ll also have to pay the price for it both in terms of cost and size and weight. For that reason, many will be served just as well, if not better, by choosing a crop camera.
Louth Photographic Society
We had a really good turn out for the visit to Rimac last night and the weather was fantastic for taking wildlife photographs. There was plenty to photograph from moths and butterflies to many different birds, there were also plenty of wildflowers as well. I think we all took plenty of photographs so the competitions should have plenty of entries this year. We spent just over two hours photographing and walking round then some of us visited the Prussian Queen in Saltfleetby, where we were made to feel welcome and quenched our thirsts.
Paul Malley, a gentle, genial, giant of a man sadly passed away recently after a long illness. Paul had been a longtime member of the Louth Photographic Society, and had served in several roles, Treasurer at one time, and latterly as a stalwart active member on the Committee. Always ready with helpful knowledge, and advice, Paul was calm in a crisis, and insightful, able to understand both sides of a discussion, and suggest a compromise. An outstanding photographer, dedicated to his craft, he produced some excellent images, some of which are shared here. Rest in peace my friend, you will be much missed by Pam, family, friends, and members of the Louth Photographic Society.
Good Morning All Last week at the club we held our monthly print competition, there was a good entry of just over 40 prints and of a very good standard. Tony Gaskins won the subject, Britain's Coastline with an excellent photograph of Whitby and Dave Tuner was 1st in the Open with an excellent misty morning photograph at Buttermere. Thank you to all that entered, and all the results are on our website. This week, Wednesday 25th June, we are going to Rimac near Saltfleet, I have heard there is quite a bit of wildlife there at the moment, let's hope we are lucky. If we meet in the car park at 6.30pm and set of as a group though we usually get stretched out as we go. I have attached a map, but if you are on a corner and there is a track going towards the sea at the area shown on the map you should be ok. Regards Graham
Our print competition with the categories of “Britain's Coastline”, and “Open” was held last night. Gail Wrigg, the LPA President, was the judge for the evening, and there were some stunning prints submitted into the competition to review. The images were judged fairly, majoring on the technical imperfections of the images, depth of focus, composition, elements within an image that could have been removed, and improved cropping of an image. Gail always connects with the audience with her critique of the submitted competition entries. It's surprising how the print medium looks, and feels so different from an image viewed on a screen, just very alive, and tactile. The competition results have been updated on the Competition page of our website.
Good Morning All, I visited Welton-Le-Wold nature reserve the other evening, a bit like a small Red Hill, there were a lot more wildflowers there than Red Hill but again not many insects, it may be better in the daytime? It is only about two miles from Louth as well. Last week was the LPA battle at Scunthorpe, only Dave Turner went taking our prints with him, not a good result for Louth, 1st Grimsby 258, 2nd Scunthorpe 245 and 3rd Louth 236, quite a difference from the first round but that's LPA battles. The next round is at Cleethorpes, it would be good if a few more members could attend. It will soon be our annual dinner at the Splash, any more deposits this week please and menu choices by midnight Wednesday please, otherwise you may go hungry. This week, Wednesday 18th June, we hold our monthly print competition, with the categories of “Britain's Coastline” and “Open” there has been a good entry so should be a good night. Regards Graham
Good Morning All Last week we visited Red Hill nature reserve, a very good turnout, but the wildlife didn't seem to know we were going, it's quite worrying though the lack of any butterflies or any other insects of any sorts. Hopefully we all got some photographs before we visited the Three horseshoes at Goulceby. I did photograph an unusual caterpillar but couldn't manage to identify it? This week we are away in the LPA Battles at Scunthorpe, for anyone planning to attend it is at the Pavilion, Bramley Crescent, Bottesford DN16 35N this Wednesday 11th at 7.30pm. I don't think I will make it due to work but hopefully some members will attend. There will be no meeting at Louth this week as members will be a way at Scunthorpe. The following week, Wednesday 18th June, we are holding the monthly print competition, if you can email your titles to Dave Turner by midnight Wednesday 11th if you have not already and bring your prints in on the night by 7 pm as no one is there to collect them this week. There are still a few deposits for the meal to come in yet, but in two week's time will be ok. If you can send your menu choices to me if you are attending by midnight 0n the 18th June please, as they need typing out and sending to the Splash two weeks in advance. Well, I think that's all, Regards Graham
When you use a digital camera for the first time it’s tempting to shoot in fully “Auto” mode, however if you continue using this mode you will be missing out on the full functionality, and capability of your camera. What I would suggest is to use one of the other modes, most photographers use the semi-automatic “Aperture Priority”, denoted by the A or Av on the mode dial, this is not as daunting as it may at first sound. There are 3 variables to obtain a properly exposed photograph, aperture, the lens opening letting the light onto the camera sensor, shutter speed, a slow 1/60 sec shutter speed allows a greater amount of light to reach the sensor than 1/250 second, and ISO, which adjusts the sensitivity of the sensor to light. Using “Aperture Priority” mode (A or Av) allows the photographer to take control over the camera settings for improved photos, and greater creative control. Switch to "Aperture Priority" mode and use the dial, or touchscreen to vary the lens opening size, displayed as an "F" number in the viewfinder or rear screen. A lower F number allows a greater amount of light to reach the sensor, reducing depth of field. A higher F number increases depth of field. To put this into perspective, I like to think of the aperture values in terms of bands: – f/1.2 – f/4 for portraits, or subject isolation, with a narrow “depth of field” f/4 – f/7.1 for wildlife, and architecture photos f/7.1 – f/16 produces great landscape images with a large “depth of field” ensuring the photo is sharp from the foreground to the distant background. These aperture values are not meant to be arbitrary, but rather to provide some guidance, the “depth of field” will vary depending on the focal length of the lens, the size of the sensor, and the distance of the photographer to the subject. The ISO value can be set to Auto ISO, or fixed at a set value, if the shutter speed drops below 1/60, the image may become “soft” the ISO can be increased to raise the shutter speed, thus ensuring a sharper image. The two images of Filey crazy golf course demonstrate the advantage of choosing an “Aperture Priority” over “Auto” mode. With the camera in “Auto” mode an aperture of f/4.5 was chosen by the camera, and the foreground rock becomes soft. Selecting “Aperture Priority”, and choosing f/8, the image is now sharp from the foreground to the background.
At Red Hill nature reserve last night members had the opportunity to practice their macro skills. The evening was bright, but with a chilly wind, both of which made macro photography fairly challenging. Macro photography needs patience and a wealth of subjects, we didn’t see any butterflies, only a couple of grasshoppers, and a ladybird. In the wildflower meadow the orchids hadn’t grown fully yet, there was plenty of Birds Foot Trefoil around, I managed to get a reasonable shot of a grasshopper, and a grass seed head, which are posted on here. It was good to see so many members attending; it was a chance to get down to ground level and see the beauty of macro / close up photography.
Good Morning All Bank Holiday Monday I went to Chambers wood in search of the Marsh Fritillary, a butterfly I had never seen before, it must have been a good year for them as there were quite a lot of them about in the meadows. Last week at the club we concentrated on macro and close up photography, showing a DVD the first half which should have given us all the technical knowledge we will need for this weeks outing to Red Hill. The second half Derek demonstrated with the help of his carved owl some of the things that had been shown in the DVD. You can go to Red Hill earlier if you like but if we say meet for 6.30pm at the reserve and I have checked the website for The Three Horseshoes at Goulceby and it says it is open until 10pm, so that's refreshments sorted. Red Hill is just over 8 miles from Louth, on the Wolds near Stenigot, the nearest postcode is LN11 9UE and a map is on the Lincolnshire wildlife trust's website. I will have my phone in case you get lost, but I can't guarantee a signal out there ( 07884316994 ). To find Red Hill if you head for Goulceby from Louth by going past the top end of Hubbards Hills you should find it ok. The following week we are away at Scunthorpe for round two of the LPA battles, more info next week for members who are planning to attend. Regards Graham
At our meeting last night an instructional DVD on “Macro Photography” was shown. The DVD material was quite detailed, very interesting, with lots of facts, and figures to consider. After the break, I attempted to unpack some of that detail with a practical demonstration using my own camera, (the OM Systems OM-1) a set of extension tubes, an LED light, and an on-camera flash. There’s lots to consider when beginning with macro photography, first of which I would say is get to know your camera, being able to adjust aperture, ISO, and watching the shutter speed if shooting in Aperture Priority mode to optimise exposure, and detail. Next, lens choice, select a lens with the closest focusing distance, if you have a dedicated macro lens then use that, otherwise a set of extension tubes may bring your camera closer to your subject. Choosing a subject, and lighting the subject with a LED light, or a camera flash speedlight will yield improved results. Don’t be afraid to experiment with settings, only by continual practice will the best images in this incredible genre, that is macro photography be realised, above all have fun. We meet at Red Hill Nature Reserve, Goulceby next week, Wednesday 4th June, to hopefully capture some amazing macro photography.
