5 Tips for Sharp Images
Derek Smith • 22 May 2020
5 Tips for Sharp Images
1. Shutter speed. Keep an eye on the shutter speed when taking your photo. Ideally the shutter speed should be at least the focal length of the lens, to avoid camera shake, so, a 50mm lens would require a minimum shutter speed of 1/50, and a 200mm lens 1/200. To maintain shutter speed, in Aperture priority keep the ISO as low as possible and adjust the aperture to balance. My Sony A7II has caught me out a couple of times, when using Auto ISO, as the shutter speed seems to remain at 1/60 no matter what lens was attached to the camera!!
2. Focusing, use a small focusing point, and position exactly onto the subject. Remember that there is roughly double the depth of field behind a focal point than there is in front. For portraits focus on the eyes, thus ensuring the nose is in focus, with the ears just beginning to soften focus. For landscape shots, focus a third of the way into the shot, rather than infinity (or horizon). For manual focusing use an in-camera aid such as magnification, or focus peaking to ensure pin sharp focusing.
3. Stop down the aperture. Most lenses have a “sweet spot” of sharpness, usually between f/4 – f/10. On a wide aperture lens of say f/1.8 stop down to f/2.8 for a sharper image, because the image corners may be soft, acceptable perhaps for a portrait, less so for landscapes which should use an aperture of between f/5.6 – f/14 for maximum sharpness corner to corner. Where possible avoid f/22 as most lenses are less sharp above f/16 because of diffraction of the light within the lens. Beware of using a lens at the extremities of performance, especially with zoom lenses, both with focal length, and aperture. As an example my Sony 18-135mm lens used at 18mm has severe vignetting, which is not seen with a JPEG straight from camera, as the in-camera correction worked well, however with processing RAW files, this would need to be corrected in the editing software on the computer.
4. Support. Hold the camera in both hands, with the eye pressed to the viewfinder, tuck both elbows in, and hold your breath as you press the shutter. Use a tripod, a bean bag on the ground, a lamppost, or a tree to steady the camera.
5. Camera settings. Turn off any noise reduction systems in the camera menus. Ensure that camera stabilisation is working. Some cameras have “In Body Image Stabilisation”, (IBIS), and other camera manufacturers stabilise the lenses, some manufacturers use a dual stabilised system, with stabilised lenses, and the body stabilisation working together. In practice IBIS tends to work well to a lens focal length of 100mm, and stabilised lenses are more effective at longer focal lengths. When hand holding the camera the difference when stabilisation is switched on is almost magical, gone are the jitters in the viewfinder, the steadiness is incredible, allowing slower shutter speeds in low light situations. When using the camera on a tripod, I would in general advise turning off the stabilisation.
The attached photo taken in an Australia winery was taken on a crop sensor camera, with a 35mm (equivalent) f/1.8 lens. I stopped down to f/2, 1/60, with ISO 1000 for a good shot in the low lighting conditions.
1. Shutter speed. Keep an eye on the shutter speed when taking your photo. Ideally the shutter speed should be at least the focal length of the lens, to avoid camera shake, so, a 50mm lens would require a minimum shutter speed of 1/50, and a 200mm lens 1/200. To maintain shutter speed, in Aperture priority keep the ISO as low as possible and adjust the aperture to balance. My Sony A7II has caught me out a couple of times, when using Auto ISO, as the shutter speed seems to remain at 1/60 no matter what lens was attached to the camera!!
2. Focusing, use a small focusing point, and position exactly onto the subject. Remember that there is roughly double the depth of field behind a focal point than there is in front. For portraits focus on the eyes, thus ensuring the nose is in focus, with the ears just beginning to soften focus. For landscape shots, focus a third of the way into the shot, rather than infinity (or horizon). For manual focusing use an in-camera aid such as magnification, or focus peaking to ensure pin sharp focusing.
3. Stop down the aperture. Most lenses have a “sweet spot” of sharpness, usually between f/4 – f/10. On a wide aperture lens of say f/1.8 stop down to f/2.8 for a sharper image, because the image corners may be soft, acceptable perhaps for a portrait, less so for landscapes which should use an aperture of between f/5.6 – f/14 for maximum sharpness corner to corner. Where possible avoid f/22 as most lenses are less sharp above f/16 because of diffraction of the light within the lens. Beware of using a lens at the extremities of performance, especially with zoom lenses, both with focal length, and aperture. As an example my Sony 18-135mm lens used at 18mm has severe vignetting, which is not seen with a JPEG straight from camera, as the in-camera correction worked well, however with processing RAW files, this would need to be corrected in the editing software on the computer.
4. Support. Hold the camera in both hands, with the eye pressed to the viewfinder, tuck both elbows in, and hold your breath as you press the shutter. Use a tripod, a bean bag on the ground, a lamppost, or a tree to steady the camera.
5. Camera settings. Turn off any noise reduction systems in the camera menus. Ensure that camera stabilisation is working. Some cameras have “In Body Image Stabilisation”, (IBIS), and other camera manufacturers stabilise the lenses, some manufacturers use a dual stabilised system, with stabilised lenses, and the body stabilisation working together. In practice IBIS tends to work well to a lens focal length of 100mm, and stabilised lenses are more effective at longer focal lengths. When hand holding the camera the difference when stabilisation is switched on is almost magical, gone are the jitters in the viewfinder, the steadiness is incredible, allowing slower shutter speeds in low light situations. When using the camera on a tripod, I would in general advise turning off the stabilisation.
The attached photo taken in an Australia winery was taken on a crop sensor camera, with a 35mm (equivalent) f/1.8 lens. I stopped down to f/2, 1/60, with ISO 1000 for a good shot in the low lighting conditions.
Louth Photographic Society
NELPS organised an outing to the Trolleybus Museum at Sandtoft, there was some confusion with opening times, and a few of us arrived to find the gates closed, we went for a coffee!! Once inside and parked up we were welcomed by the volunteer staff, and began to take some photos around the site. A Grimsby trolleybus was running this morning, this bus had been painstakingly restored from a bare chassis, with great attention to detail, even down to sourcing the original moquette fabric to upholster the seats, it was great to be able to ride in a trolleybus again. Trolleybuses have a particular nostalgic memory for me, I lived in Uxbridge, on the outskirts of London, and the 607 trolleybus route ran past the end of my road, with a usual frequency of 5 minute intervals the buses were a common sight gliding along the main road. The 607 route was one of the longest in the country 11 miles to Shepherds Bush, taking about an hour for the journey. The trolleybus was whisper quiet, comfortable, and pollution free, and I took several trips on these. In comparison the conventional London bus the “RT” was not as quiet for longer journeys. The London trolleybuses, and eventually the London “RT” buses, were replaced with the iconic diesel fuelled Routemaster “RM” bus. I had an enjoyable visit, and many thanks to NELPS for organising the outing.
When we see a photograph what do we actually see? Does the image grab our attention? Does the image tell a story, or do we have to fill in the blanks with our own memories, and experiences? If we see a complete picture, or just a detail, which stirs our emotions most? At a recent competition a print was shown of fishing boats pulled up on the beach at North Landing, Flamborough, it was an excellent print, but the judge remarked “it’s just boats on a beach”. Do we feel the same emotion with a “normal” view, or do we want more, a storm raging, or fishermen launching the boats? Anyway, here are a few of my “abnormal” photos, first up a rusted bolt, you see I ask “who put that there?”, “what did it once hold?” Second, a vehicle excise disc, surely that stirs memories? Thirdly, a stone carved column, who carved the details? Was it shaped according to an architect’s brief, or a stone masons pattern? What emotions were felt by the stone mason? Lastly, a door handle. Where does this lead? How old is it, and how many hands have opened this door? Finally, I think that I’ve got my “mojo” back, I’ve been out more with my camera, and enjoying the experience, and surely that’s what photography is all about, the joy of capturing an image that pleases me.
The Exhibition will be in place from 10th - 29th September 2026
I was scrolling through the archives yesterday, and found these "Still Life" images. Still Life is an interesting photographic genre that requires good lighting, and compositional skills, but the results can be amazing. Here are four images of the genre, "Breakfast" showing cereal falling into a bowl, "Four Candles" (no not the ones from the Two Ronnies sketch), the moody "Decaying Tulip", and the simple but effective monochrome "Opener". Perhaps these images might give you some inspiration.
I joined the NELPS outing at Chambers Farm Woods on Wednesday. The NELPS visit to Chamber Farm wood and butterfly garden was well attended, with several members from NELPS, Grimsby, Dunholme and Louth, kind thanks to all that came, although it was very hot the butterfly garden, being rather full and slightly unkept did not let us down with butterflies, two less common were seen, a Comma butterfly and a humming bird moth, with loads of very lively common blue butterflies. Most of the insects in the butterfly garden were highly active, and by the time an insect was spotted, it was off!! I managed to just about get an image of the Comma butterfly, and nobody stood a chance with the humming bird moth, it was too fast. The dragonfly was more accommodating remaining fairly still posing for us. The next NELPS outing will be to the Peoples Park in Grimsby on Wednesday 19th, I'm busy on that day, but I will be attending the meeting at the Sandtoft Trolleybus Museum on Wednesday 26th. Many thanks to NELPS for organising these outings, it was a thoroughly pleasurable morning.
A visit to Whitby for a sunset picture didn't quite go to plan. Unknown to me today is the last day of the Whitby Regatta. Whitby in the summer is usually busy, but today it rivaled Time Square in New York. My planned shoot of the East Pier was a non-starter because for tonight only there's a fun fair along West Pier where I planned to shoot from. I had to re-think and resort to plan b, which was also a non-starter because the East Pier was closed as it was packed with fireworks. Plan c was OK though and I got an image I'm pleased with.
I've been up to RSPB Bempton Cliffs this week, and have taken some excellent photographs, the weather was fine, and the lighting was less harsh than usual. This pair were on the cliff top, obviously well established, and saw off this interloper trying to muscle in on their space, those beaks look very vicious. I hope that everyone else is having a productive summer break.
For club interaction, we are invited to these NELPS photo shoots. So lets start this club interaction, NELPS are now on there summer break, but it does not stop there. The NELPS club president has put together some outdoor photo shoots:- Lincoln 5th Aug meet at the Cathedral 11am Not forgetting the photo exhibition by Lincoln Camera Club in the Usher Gallery! Chambers Farm Wood & Butterfly Farm 12th Aug meet at 10am. Peoples Park Grimsby 19th Aug meet at 10am. Trolley Bus Museum Sandtoft 26th Aug meet at 10am Cadwell Park 10th Aug motorbikes, 24th Aug cars and both are track days so free to get in.
Sutton & Trusthorpe Camera Club have their annual Exhibition at the Meridale Hall, Sutton on Sea, on 29th / 30th August. Drink and a Home-made cake only £3!
I’ve lost my photographic “mojo”, that desire to go out and take impactful photographs. That creative spark has gone, vanished, will it ever return? Writers talk of a “writers block”, when they just sit in front of a blank page, and can’t think of anything else to write, I’m the same, still out with my camera, but just not creating anything meaningful. Some of this I suppose is due to the fact that I’ve almost stopped my genre of model photography, we had the Studio evening, and other than that I’ve only had 2 model shoots this year. So what is my photography genre now? I know that I’m not a bird photographer, I haven’t got the patience to sit in a bird hide for hours with a long lens, waiting for the right bird shot to appear. Landscape, possibly, but I look at the work of some of our members, and YouTube videos, and don’t know whether I can achieve as good a standard in my work? I do enjoy macro photography, but again do my photos reach a good standard? One way forward is to look at our Societies annual project, this year it’s “water” one photo a month depicting water. Then of course there are the planned photo competitions for the rest of the year, those subjects could inspire me to go out and take some images. Anyway, that’s me, enjoy the rest of the summer, and if any of our members could share a photo, with a line or two of text I will be very happy to post on this blog.
