5 Tips for Sharp Images
Derek Smith • 22 May 2020
5 Tips for Sharp Images
1. Shutter speed. Keep an eye on the shutter speed when taking your photo. Ideally the shutter speed should be at least the focal length of the lens, to avoid camera shake, so, a 50mm lens would require a minimum shutter speed of 1/50, and a 200mm lens 1/200. To maintain shutter speed, in Aperture priority keep the ISO as low as possible and adjust the aperture to balance. My Sony A7II has caught me out a couple of times, when using Auto ISO, as the shutter speed seems to remain at 1/60 no matter what lens was attached to the camera!!
2. Focusing, use a small focusing point, and position exactly onto the subject. Remember that there is roughly double the depth of field behind a focal point than there is in front. For portraits focus on the eyes, thus ensuring the nose is in focus, with the ears just beginning to soften focus. For landscape shots, focus a third of the way into the shot, rather than infinity (or horizon). For manual focusing use an in-camera aid such as magnification, or focus peaking to ensure pin sharp focusing.
3. Stop down the aperture. Most lenses have a “sweet spot” of sharpness, usually between f/4 – f/10. On a wide aperture lens of say f/1.8 stop down to f/2.8 for a sharper image, because the image corners may be soft, acceptable perhaps for a portrait, less so for landscapes which should use an aperture of between f/5.6 – f/14 for maximum sharpness corner to corner. Where possible avoid f/22 as most lenses are less sharp above f/16 because of diffraction of the light within the lens. Beware of using a lens at the extremities of performance, especially with zoom lenses, both with focal length, and aperture. As an example my Sony 18-135mm lens used at 18mm has severe vignetting, which is not seen with a JPEG straight from camera, as the in-camera correction worked well, however with processing RAW files, this would need to be corrected in the editing software on the computer.
4. Support. Hold the camera in both hands, with the eye pressed to the viewfinder, tuck both elbows in, and hold your breath as you press the shutter. Use a tripod, a bean bag on the ground, a lamppost, or a tree to steady the camera.
5. Camera settings. Turn off any noise reduction systems in the camera menus. Ensure that camera stabilisation is working. Some cameras have “In Body Image Stabilisation”, (IBIS), and other camera manufacturers stabilise the lenses, some manufacturers use a dual stabilised system, with stabilised lenses, and the body stabilisation working together. In practice IBIS tends to work well to a lens focal length of 100mm, and stabilised lenses are more effective at longer focal lengths. When hand holding the camera the difference when stabilisation is switched on is almost magical, gone are the jitters in the viewfinder, the steadiness is incredible, allowing slower shutter speeds in low light situations. When using the camera on a tripod, I would in general advise turning off the stabilisation.
The attached photo taken in an Australia winery was taken on a crop sensor camera, with a 35mm (equivalent) f/1.8 lens. I stopped down to f/2, 1/60, with ISO 1000 for a good shot in the low lighting conditions.
1. Shutter speed. Keep an eye on the shutter speed when taking your photo. Ideally the shutter speed should be at least the focal length of the lens, to avoid camera shake, so, a 50mm lens would require a minimum shutter speed of 1/50, and a 200mm lens 1/200. To maintain shutter speed, in Aperture priority keep the ISO as low as possible and adjust the aperture to balance. My Sony A7II has caught me out a couple of times, when using Auto ISO, as the shutter speed seems to remain at 1/60 no matter what lens was attached to the camera!!
2. Focusing, use a small focusing point, and position exactly onto the subject. Remember that there is roughly double the depth of field behind a focal point than there is in front. For portraits focus on the eyes, thus ensuring the nose is in focus, with the ears just beginning to soften focus. For landscape shots, focus a third of the way into the shot, rather than infinity (or horizon). For manual focusing use an in-camera aid such as magnification, or focus peaking to ensure pin sharp focusing.
3. Stop down the aperture. Most lenses have a “sweet spot” of sharpness, usually between f/4 – f/10. On a wide aperture lens of say f/1.8 stop down to f/2.8 for a sharper image, because the image corners may be soft, acceptable perhaps for a portrait, less so for landscapes which should use an aperture of between f/5.6 – f/14 for maximum sharpness corner to corner. Where possible avoid f/22 as most lenses are less sharp above f/16 because of diffraction of the light within the lens. Beware of using a lens at the extremities of performance, especially with zoom lenses, both with focal length, and aperture. As an example my Sony 18-135mm lens used at 18mm has severe vignetting, which is not seen with a JPEG straight from camera, as the in-camera correction worked well, however with processing RAW files, this would need to be corrected in the editing software on the computer.
4. Support. Hold the camera in both hands, with the eye pressed to the viewfinder, tuck both elbows in, and hold your breath as you press the shutter. Use a tripod, a bean bag on the ground, a lamppost, or a tree to steady the camera.
5. Camera settings. Turn off any noise reduction systems in the camera menus. Ensure that camera stabilisation is working. Some cameras have “In Body Image Stabilisation”, (IBIS), and other camera manufacturers stabilise the lenses, some manufacturers use a dual stabilised system, with stabilised lenses, and the body stabilisation working together. In practice IBIS tends to work well to a lens focal length of 100mm, and stabilised lenses are more effective at longer focal lengths. When hand holding the camera the difference when stabilisation is switched on is almost magical, gone are the jitters in the viewfinder, the steadiness is incredible, allowing slower shutter speeds in low light situations. When using the camera on a tripod, I would in general advise turning off the stabilisation.
The attached photo taken in an Australia winery was taken on a crop sensor camera, with a 35mm (equivalent) f/1.8 lens. I stopped down to f/2, 1/60, with ISO 1000 for a good shot in the low lighting conditions.
Louth Photographic Society
Our highlight competition, Print Of The Year (POTY) competition was held last night, with our judge Grahame Dunkin giving his experienced critique on the excellent images submitted. Congratulations to Dave Turner for his Monochrome image of the year: West Pier Watchtower - Whitby, and Graham Harrison for his Colour image: Hairy Shield Bug.
Good Morning All Last week we went to have a look at the Lancaster sculpture at Norton Disney, it is open for visitors at certain times and although work is still ongoing the main Lancaster is finished and a car park in place. The sculpture is full size weighing 100 tons and honours WW2 RAF crews. Last week at the club Derek Smith ran an editing night, members were asked to bring their laptops in and Derek gave us all an SD card with some images to edit and information regarding the free editing software. A different and interesting night and hopefully we all learnt something and anyone new to photography would have learnt quite a lot. Thank you Derek for running the evening. This week, Wednesday 11th February, we have one of the clubs yearly highlights, the Print Of The Year (POTY) competition to be judged by Grahame Dunkin, all the entries are now in and you should have checked the scoresheets to make sure yours are included. Dave Turner is also asking for prints to enter into the Foster Challenge and LPA Print Battles. He will ask to use prints that are in the print of the year but if you have any prints that you think would be good to enter in the two competitions please bring them and hand them into Dave Turner. The following week we are having an evening collecting everything in for our exhibition at the Louth museum, if you can sort out any prints especially local prints that could go into our exhibition please bring them in on the 18th February. Regards Graham
Last Sunday I was in Stockton on Tees working with Izzy, a favourite model of mine she enjoys cosplay, that’s dressing up as a character from Marvel, Hasbro, or film titles. This photo is of Fey, a woodland sprite, pictured against a woodland backdrop that I bought for the photoshoot. I stayed overnight at a Premier Inn, and in the morning drove to Staithes, as I had always wanted to visit this fishing village, Staithes in the February rain wasn’t much fun, and the tide was out, but I did manage to take a few photos, and I captured one for the “Water” project so I was pleased with that. I was quite surprised how vibrant the colours were in the drizzle, and misty light. Driving back over the North Yorkshire Moors in rain, and fog, didn’t allow for much photography either. Yesterday, walking along the harbour front in Bridlington the high tide, and strong winds had thrown lots of debris onto the promenade, seaweed, nets, tree branches, and cuttlefish kept council workmen busy clearing up the mess. With the right clothing, and a weatherproof camera photography can still be enjoyed even in poor conditions.
A photo editing workshop was held last night, with members bringing in their laptops, and post processing sample images. Members were able to practice processing bracketed, and focus stacked images. Simple editing tasks of cloning unwanted items from images, cropping, and resizing of images were shown. The excellent FastStone photo viewer, and editor was able to accomplish most tasks apart from developing of RAW images, this free software is a “must have” for those with Windows computers. The Affinity photo editor has now been acquired by Canva, and the changes applied by Canva have made the software very confusing to use, and on my 14” Lenovo Thinkpad, it was very difficult to view the master layer to apply adjustments. PhotoScape X is a simplistic photo editor, for all that the software was easy to use, and the RAW processing was seamless. It was an interesting evening, and hopefully members will have attained some new skills in post processing, some of the images edited are shown here.
Good morning All I did manage to get to visit Gibraltar Point last week, very few birds to photograph at this time of year but I took a few and a Grey Squirrel. Last week member Dave Mann showed us photographs from his visit to Beamish, it's a great day out and Dave went round most of it and showed us some photographs from the new 1950's town as well as the farm, pit village, town and trains. Thank you Dave, and Harry for helping out with refreshments. This week, Wednesday 4th February, Derek is running an editing night, he has sent us all information on what we could download, if you have a laptop remember to bring it along. Print of the year is fast approaching, if you are entering make sure you send Dave Turner a list of your entries with which subject they are in and bring your prints along this week. Regards Graham
Fed up with watching the rain coming down, I set out yesterday into the rain to Normanby Hall to try and get a photo for the “Water Project”, I have one potentially good image, but I always like to see if I can get something better. My OM Systems OM-1 camera, and 12-40mm Pro lens are weatherproof, but obviously I wasn’t, but really lovely to get out.
Last night Dave Mann gave an excellent talk on his visit to Beamish in May last year. Dave explored much more of the Beamish site than when I visited in April last year, Dave mentioned the difficulties of getting on some of the vintage transport around the site, I experienced the same during my visit. It's a fascinating historic working museum and well recommended for a visit. Many thanks Dave for an entertaining evening.
Good Morning All Last week at the club we had our yearly project night, last year it was one photograph a month with the same focal length, there is a full report on the evening on our blog page, but four members did last year's project with newer member Sam Collet showing photographs at the club for the first time, some excellent photographs taken in Japan. It would be good if a few more members took part this year, just one photograph a month with the subject being water. Attached is my January photograph from last year, it would work for this years project as well. This week, Wednesday 28th January, our catering manager Dave Mann will be having a week off and showing some of his photographs. His presentation will be a mixed bag of photographs. Don't forget to send Dave Turner an email with your titles for the print of the year. Entries will need bringing in on the 4th February. Regards Graham
We held our "Project Night" last night, the theme being "Prime Time", one photo each month taken over the previous 12 months, using the same focal length "prime" lens. Myself, Harry Kerman, Keith Rossington, and Graham Harrison, had each completed the project and were able to show their results as projected images at the meeting. The results of the project were very interesting, seeing how each photographer had approached the theme, and their interpretation of the project. I have posted here one image from each photographer. The evening was rounded off by one of our newer members, Sam Collett, displaying some of his images taken on a visit to Japan, his wildlife photography was stunning in detail, and quality, well done Sam.
Good morning All Last week at the club we held our monthly competition, a PDI, with the categories of "Insects" and "Open". There was a good level of entries and some excellent photography. The competition was judged by Colin Lusby of NELPS Photographic Society. The "Open" category was won by Dave Turner with an excellent landscape of Llanberis, and I managed a first place in the subject competition with a Willow Emerald Damselfly, still quite rare but I photographed this one at Bressingham Gardens Norfolk. The results and photographs are on are website under competitions. This week, Wednesday 21st January, is our project night, only four members took part, hopefully more will take part this year. The subject was "Prime Time", one photograph a month with the same focal length lens. To finish the evening, Paul Twomey is showing his mini lecture that he missed last time, and newer member Sam Collett is showing some of his work. The new project subject is Water, one photograph a month including water. There is plenty of water about at the moment, the rivers are flowing well for a start. Dave Turner will now accept your titles for Print of the year, the same subjects as the PDI of the year but with the addition of Best mono in competition as well. This is chosen by the judge from any mono print in the six subjects. Regards Graham
